温哥華島三驚喜 尋幽覓舊一日遊

图文/刘耀国

Day trip to Vancouver Island . Nice surprises along the way and in Nanaimo and Parksville.

今天 (July 4-2017) 行程因時間緊迫只限於拿乃磨及柏斯維爾一帶, 但有很大驚喜和收獲: Nanaimo, B.C. (Canada 2016 Census population 90,504) A city known as “The Harbour City.” was previously known as the “Hub City” which has been attributed to its original layout design where the streets radiated out from the shoreline like the spokes of a wagon wheel as well as its generally centralized location on Vancouver Island.

拿乃磨位于温哥華島東部中间位置, 隔條喬治亞海峽与卑斯大陸遙遙相對. 是維多利亞外温島人口最多的域市. 早期華人参加尋金热、煤礦開採等等先後有四个唐人街. 最後一个建于市区後小丘上, 家父在那里住了十多年.1960年一場大火吞噬了整个唐人街. 從此荒廢至今. 家父般入山丘下車房式小屋又住七年.1967年退休後我们五十年没有再踏足乃磨-老華僑讀法-直至今天!

Chinatowns-Nanaimo has had a succession of four distinct Chinatowns. The first, founded during the gold rush years of the 1860s, was the third largest in British Columbia. In 1884 relocated elsewhere because of mounting racial tensions. In 1908, moved to the site on Pine Street. That third Chinatown, by then mostly derelict, burned down on 30 September 1960. A fourth Chinatown, also called Lower Chinatown or “new town”, boomed for a while in the 1920s on Machleary Street. 今次因緣際會隨加東亞嫂及两侄子到乃磨尋找唐人街竟無人知道, 後來就靠糢糢糊糊記憶往小丘轉了幾轉, 忽然眼前出現似曾相識有中文的車房小屋. 匆忙停車細看, 门牌街名都記起來了. 小屋保养很好, 外加中式圓柱, 粉飾一新. 原來已成為洪門民冶党乃磨分部之会所.

Chinese Freemasons of Canada helped many Chinese settlers that fell upon hardship during the gold rush and construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway in the late 1800’s Chinese Freemasons of Canada have offered assistance to the larger Asian community in Canada that has led to the improved welfare of many citizens.

洪门民治党的前身为天地会,350年前的革命组织協助推翻腐败的满清政权;抗日战爭中黄花岗七十二烈士中有52名洪门英雄;在加拿大,华人被歧视的年代,积极维护了当地华人华侨的利益,为所在地华人排忧解难起到了中流砥柱的作用。洪门民治党成员遍布世界各地,在加拿大的中国洪门民治党现共有26个分部,乃磨分部是其中之一。

Parksville B.C. Population: 11,977

A growing, progressive community, an excellent combination of retirement, business and recreational opportunities, facilities and services make Parksville a great place for people of all ages to live and to work!

柏斯維爾在乃磨之北半小時車程. 而最負盛名之渡假村当年是家父長期友好顧客. 旧作「岁月流光-居加生活掠影」http://van.zsssaa.com/?p=53620」中有照片介紹. 現在的酒店金碧輝煌, 客房三百多元起. 難得两位侄子細心, 臨時改變計劃, 安排在這里食午餐.

The Island Hall opened in 1917, built by British entrepreneurs Joan Foster and Winnifred Philpott who came to Vancouver Island at the start of World War One. The resort then became one of Parksville’s flagship accommodation destinations for the next 80 years. The Island Hall proudly hosted guests fromaround the world, including Queen Elizabeth II . 這里接待过不少知名人士, 包括依麗莎女皇二世.

下午離開温哥華島前参觀了三个半山新發展項目, 共同點是都拥有無敵海景. 拿乃磨附近還有很多小島海景處處, 人口少但設施齊全交通交便. 小島与小島间, 与拿乃磨间, 与温哥華间有B.C. 渡輪定期服務. 住小島可選擇遠離繁華, 也可以接近港口. 去過,住过的朋友都贊為世外桃源. 請看看旧作「夏日炎炎山水間-海湾小島一曰遊」. (http://van.zsssaa.com/?p=68604)
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At the Horseshoe Bay BC Ferry Terminal. 早上九點多到逹西温馬蹄湾卑斯渡輪碼頭.加東侄子網上留位得以進入優先綫. 登記費双程$20.物有所值.

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Fruits and drinks roadside stand. 等船開, 有時间去洗手間及買生果,飲品.

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Loading completed fast and smooth. 汽車或步行者上船快捷. 風平浪靜.汽車無需固定器.

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Leaving on time. 依時啓航. 載車层外望.

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Taking a picture of the Terminal. 船上角度拍碼頭風景別開生面.

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Taking pictures on deck and enjoying the scenery at the same time. 風光如晝,心曠神怡.

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Beautiful ship! 卑斯渡輪外貌美觀.

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Nice and quiet? not quite. lots people went outside (on deck) and lots people went to the restaurant. 啓航後很多人留在甲板上, 很多人去了餐廳.

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90 minutes later, we’ve arrived Departure Bay outside of Nanaimo 九十分鐘後到達拿乃磨. 城市街道放射式部局. Gabriola 島在左上方.

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We went to Parksville first. Only 30 minutes from Departure Bay and found the Island Hall hotel. 50年代一个夏天隨家父每星期四天送瓜菜到此.上下人等都很友善,印象深刻.

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1947 Island Hall Hotel guess register. 酒店女子介紹我們看展覽牆舊照. 喜見新管理层特意保護昔日光輝歷史文物.

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The hotel which was my father’s long time customer in the 50s and 60s.We were here 4 times a week delivering produce etc. Now it is the new Beach Club resort. 現在的渡假村美侖美奐.Official photo.

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Hotel display wall photo. 酒店大堂之海湾廣角鏡优秀作品.

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Adding a little interest to the picture. 一望無際的沙灘有小亭子及女子拍照,打破大海湾之單調.

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Cell phones taking better pictures then before these days 手机拍照效果較前佳有進步.

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Hotel rooms facing the beach . 新酒店比以前高和大,設施先進.

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New boardwalk is a nice addition to the resort and the beach users in general. 長長闊阔的木板路供行人和单車使用.

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Hotel restaurant outdoor patio. 戶外茶座.

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Simple lunch (but not the price) with nice breeze from the sea. 凉风习习.多点時間緬懷過去享受眼前

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Low tide. Bring the chairs and tents. 潮退.需要行很久才到水邊. 不少人帶齊沙灘用品, 帳篷等等消磨大半天.拍水边人物用到20倍長鏡.

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Parksville. one of many shopping malls. 社區中心愛蓮女士幾日前來过. 雖然是小鎮, 公路旁大小商場很多,我們有的大公司,連銷店等這里也有, 更驚奇的是賣新車的車行很大很多.可想而知人口增長快.

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It’s a restaurant, not a political statement. notice the fork. 左手人餐室.

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Respect for every body. Intentionally made the left handed and the right handed switch places. 反客為主:專重所有人,包括右手人在內-左手人啟

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Nanaimo’s Chinatown burn down in 1960 and this must be the only thing we can still see of Chinatown today. 家父五、六十年代舊居. 想不到50年後仍在. 屋外加紅柱粉飾一新变成洪門民治党会所.

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Not much has changed in 50 years. 附近仍然冷清清, 50年不變.

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First time in 50 years. If not for the GPS, we wouldn’t have found it. 如果不是两位侄子同遊.自已大概不會來找尋应該不存在的50多年前舊屋了.

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North of Nanaimo new house development .乃磨以北半山新區.

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34 ft.lot with ocean view. 海景窄地售價二十多萬.

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Another location nearby with big lots. 另一處發展中之高尚社區. 100尺 闊??

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Reminded us of West Vancouver’s British Property. 有點似西温半山區但售價天淵之別.

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Our own surveyor-measure by steps . 量地官 in action.

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House built on the rock 石丘上新屋上下兩层陽臺盡覽海峽景色.

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Time to say good-bye. 7:30 pm sailing. Back at horseshoe Bay around 9pm .most Chinese restaurant closing at 10pm on week days, only this one open late. 回到温哥華已晚. 這间開到半夜. 著名台湾風味猪脚

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Late dinner anything taste good? 大家都餓了. 魚香茄子也不錯.

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A little bit spicy. 回鍋肉.

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Spicy Chicken hotpot. 三杯雞. 全部味濃, 最後的蒸魚就有點平淡(左). 此行可算收獲豐富.盡興而歸.

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